June 6, 2019 | A Thousand Words

Recently, I traipsed through Old Town Square after lunch to the faint tune of an accordion. Assuming the sound was visiting me through the air via stereo, I paid no mind to the melody — and neither did the tourists. Deciding to follow the music, I was led to an aged accordion player on the corner of a building adjacent to the clock. He was set apart both figuratively and literally. There was a distinct wisdom in his hands as he played but no audience to witness. How? The square was run amuck with people who were visiting with a single purpose to consume culture. With only a few coins in his instrument case, it was clear the tourists did not intend to translate their admiration to compensation. This is common.

Street performances in Prague are a dime a dozen, especially in iconic places such as Old Town. Giant inflatable bears attract children galore, painted tin men tweet at passer-bys and occasionally, the floating Grim Reaper makes an appearance. Each performer draws a crowd. It can be compared to the likes of the New Orleans French Quarter. Though, recent observations have lead me to believe there’s a divide between Czech and American street performer when it comes to consumers. It’s etiquette. I’ve watched groups stand and gawk for the better part of five minutes; then they walk away. I’ve seen a teenager run up to a performer with a selfie stick for a photo and bolt without hesitation. The performers cannot hide their disheartenment. For the accordion player, his talent is how he survives. Irreverence prevents these people from providing for themselves and/or a family.

Street performers are not entitled to attention, or compensation either, but they are entitled to respect. If you’re ever in the area, try not to be a culture vulture.

June 5, 2019 | Architecturally Speaking

Though the crowd of the anti-Babiš demonstration was 120,000 people strong, navigating Wenceslas Square was duck soup. However, despite the docile masses, many took to rooftops and balconies for higher vantage points of the protest.

In America, the security at public demonstrations is usually abundant and taut. Last night, there were police and traffic regulators on-site, but I noticed there wasn’t any security personnel standing near elevators or staircases that lead to leveraged spaces. Frankly, I was tense when walking beneath these buildings or even being in the line of sight of someone much higher than me. Although, the participators sitting on the rooftop of Dum Módy had no malicious intent to harm from a blind spot. My fear was only reflective of the risks I know to be true back home.

On a lighter note, Dum Módy — Czech for Fashion House — is a five story department store that features women’s and men’s apparel from international brands and designers. But currently, the fourth floor hosts the world’s first public gallery of real naked people. Voayer. Do expect a summation of my experience because I have every intention to purchase a ticket.

June 4, 2019 | A Thousand Words

I’m overwhelmed by the caliber of pride that the Czech have for their country. Peace and valor were synonymous throughout the entirety of the protest; boldness espoused gentleness. It was a special kind of tenacity.

For context, the Czech were protesting Prime Minister Andrej Babiš and calling for his resignation due to accounts of fraud. He’s known to the locals as the “Czech Donald Trump.” The protest was predicted to be the largest since 1989, with an expected turn out of 100,000 participants.

Before we rushed the crowds, my adrenaline skyrocketed at the thought of anything going wrong. In turn, I hastily decided that I had to optimize efficiency and untether myself from any and all of my belongings. I was going to go at it the Associated Press way. The Washington Post way. The Nat Geo way. And they probably would’ve shoved their metro card and cash in their underwear too.

Lens cap in bra, I entered into the crowd. If you want to hear about how I threw elbows and cursed in another language to push past each protestor, you’ve got the wrong blog. A man gave me his spot on a ledge to take a photograph. A child offered his horn instrument to me. People cleared a path for every person who needed to move somewhere that was not there. They were kind and encouraging, a vessel for many of my images.

June 3, 2019 | Around Here

With every day that passes here, I feel smaller and smaller. (This is not a cry for help, Mom.) The landmarks in this city are ginormous, and I’m beginning to believe that everything in Texas is not so big.

That being said, the Prague Castle really reinforced the idea that I am merely an ant. The trio above appeared to be taking a drawing class — replicating intricate details of gargoyles that release rainwater and spires that narrow towards the sky to a needle point. They were tucked into a sliver of shade to work while still holding regard for the sun. One can pay their respects to those who went before us in so many beautiful ways.

Prior to uploading this image, I wished that I hung around for a bit longer to get a shot of the woman to the far left in the same position as the two that sat in front of her. However, in this case, uniformity would almost be insulting to artistic process. The student is searching for the ideal color. She’s putting care into a recreational activity not because her success depends on it, but because she is nurturing someone else’s creation as they are not here to do it themselves.

The purpose of our livelihood, if nothing else, is to admire.

June 2, 2019 | Weekend Miser

Ema Bartalska, welcome committee of one and Prague native, allowed me and Casey to follow her around for an entire afternoon. After finding Casey through Instagram, she reached out to her extending an invite to meet and take photos together. I was a lucky plus one — and thank goodness.

In four hours that felt like 40 minutes, Ema enriched our travel experience beyond measure. We journeyed to the industrial part of the city to visit some of her favorite places, each of us gradually stepping more and more out of our comfort zones as we exchanged stories and weighed the differences in our cultures.

I felt at ease with Ema almost immediately. At first, I couldn’t put my finger on why. But it didn’t take long to realize that she reminded me of home. Her energy was a combination of 2/4 of my younger sisters, Emma and Kelsey; it was restorative to be in her presence.

Ema, if you’re reading this, thank you.

June 1, 2019 | Small Wonder

Once again: Deliver us, oh wise and powerful Metro system, to what lay beyond our amateur eyes. Two tram rides later, we arrived at a flea market riddled with humble riches.

I finally transcended my tourist mentality during this morning trip. Immersed in the belly of the bargain beast, I did my best to haggle. Turns out, I’m not as intimidating as I thought. That’s alright. I came away with only an aged magazine and images of people who bore witness to my pathetic attempts to negotiate. That’s alright too.

The sight of ice cream at 11 in the morning was unsettling to my lactose intolerant body. Although, that may have just been jealousy. As I waited behind these tires, I pondered their origin. New? Used? Swiped from beneath someone’s nose? Quite frankly, it made no difference to me.

I’m thankful for whatever debauchery placed the rubber frames in my path.

May 31, 2019 | Noticed

The Romani welcomed us. They welcomed us with words in an unknown language, yet still bred by sincerity. They sauntered down streets once prohibited to them, beaming in the faces of those who still believe they are lesser. Unbeknownst to tourists in attendance, today is their annual opportunity to remind bitter locals that yes, they’ve still got it. Eloquent mockery.

The Khamoro World Gypsy Festival is held to celebrate the Roma culture after many years of their people being disenfranchised by the people of Europe. It is the one and only event in the Czech Republic that serves to support its Roma neighbors. The discrimination against this ethnic group remains to be incomprehensible to me — even more so upon observing the parade in the afternoon. How can a culture so inclusive of both their admirers and persecutors be excluded from history and present day life? (Hey, this is a common theme in the states too.)

Joyful spirits of the dancers projected through each movement; shout, clap, tambourine to the hip. They take great pride in their art and heritage. The passion glows in their cheeks in parallel with their mothers. Parents of performers took backwards strides ahead as they recorded on devices and shouted, “Opa!” Some even had another child in tow or on their hip. There is a deep sense of familial connection that is threaded between each person. The Romas are a community of lovers. It is the responsibility of the Czech to act in allyship to them.

Perhaps their untiring warmth is coveted.

May 30, 2019 | Location Notations

Pictured above is Brian, an employee at the famous Hamley’s toy store. Today, his only responsibility was to play with hand glider airplanes and shout about its features to curious customers.

“No strings, no batteries! Just your index and middle finger,” he said.

What makes these hand gliders such a hot commodity at Hamley’s is that when they are thrown, they return back to the owner in a boomerang manner. Adults and children alike surrounded Brian to give it a go, and to their delight, they were buy two get one free.

Hamley’s has been open since 1837. They launched the very first set of ping-pong games in the world shortly after. Currently, Hamley’s owns 71 branches in 21 countires. The Prague location boasts a carrousel, interactive games and a giant snake slide that leads from the second floor to the first.

No, the carrousel isn’t free, but it’s worth the Crowns and memories.

May 29, 2019 | Location Notations

A simple thrill — that’s the Prague Metro (or at least to a rookie like myself). Established in 1974, the rapid transit system serves over one million passengers a day via three lines and 61 stations. It’s efficient, it’s clean and it’s a people watcher’s paradise.

Aside from an erratic cab ride, the Metro was my first experience in this city. I hopped on the tram with some folks from my cohort, and we were propelled towards the underground Metro station Flora. The escalators that lead down to the bread scented stations are comparable to the Texas Giant at Six Flags with some being 14 stories high. It’s an instant serotonin booster…if you’re into that.

Apparently, the Czech love to stare. Well, they’re in luck because I do too. They really are an honest bunch. One look into their eyes, and you can definitely tell if you forgot deodorant or not. These exchanges are apt to occur while aboard while everyone waits to arrive at their stop. You just have to embrace it.

While I love the Metro, one fear remains: My head will get squished in the doors, and the conductor will 100% leave me for dead.